Denim Glossary: Jeans Terms Explained from A to Z

Denim Glossary: Jeans Terms Explained from A to Z

Denim has a vocabulary of its own, from weaving and dyeing terms such as twill and rope dyeing, to fit words such as rise and inseam, to finishing terms such as stonewash and distressing. This glossary collects that vocabulary from A to Z in one place, with a short, plain explanation for each term and a link to the full entry.

Use it whenever you come across an unfamiliar word on this site or on a product listing elsewhere. Each entry also links back to the guide where the term is discussed in more practical depth, so the glossary works both as a quick lookup and as a starting point for exploring a topic further.

A

  • Acid washAcid wash is a finishing technique that bleaches denim unevenly, using chemically treated stones, to create a…

B

  • Bar tackA bar tack is a small, dense block of zigzag stitching used to reinforce points on jeans that take repeated s…
  • BootcutBootcut jeans are fitted through the thigh and knee, then flare out gently from the knee to the hem to fit ov…
  • Boyfriend jeansBoyfriend jeans are a relaxed, slightly loose women's fit with a straight leg, styled to look casually borrow…
  • Broken twillBroken twill is a weave that periodically reverses its diagonal direction, which helps stop finished jeans fr…
  • Button flyA button fly is a jeans closure using a row of buttons instead of a zip, associated with traditional and raw …

C

  • Chain stitchChain stitch is a looped, interlocking stitch traditionally used to hem jeans, recognisable by the slightly r…
  • Coin pocketThe coin pocket is the small pocket set inside the right front pocket of jeans, originally designed to hold a…
  • Comfort stretchComfort stretch describes denim with a modest amount of elastane, aimed at everyday ease of movement rather t…
  • CrockingCrocking is the transfer of loose, unfixed dye from the surface of denim onto skin, upholstery or other fabri…

D

  • DenimDenim is a durable cotton twill fabric, traditionally dyed with indigo, that forms the basis of jeans and man…
  • Denim weight (oz)Denim weight, measured in ounces per square yard, indicates how thick and heavy the fabric is, which affects …
  • DistressingDistressing is the deliberate ageing of denim through techniques such as sanding, scraping, tearing or frayin…

E

  • ElastaneElastane is a highly elastic synthetic fiber blended into cotton, typically at 1 to 3 percent, to give denim …

F

  • FadesFades are the lighter patterns that gradually appear on denim as the surface indigo dye wears away through mo…
  • Felled seamA felled seam folds the raw edges of fabric flat and stitches them down, leaving a strong, enclosed seam with…
  • FlareFlare jeans are close fitting through the hip and thigh, then widen noticeably from the knee to a wide hem, m…

H

  • HemmingHemming is the alteration that shortens the leg length of jeans by cutting and refolding the bottom edge, the…
  • High riseHigh rise jeans have a waistband that sits at or above the natural waistline, the highest of the common rise …
  • HoneycombsHoneycombs are the clustered, web like fade pattern that forms behind the knee of jeans from the repeated cre…

I

  • IndigoIndigo is the blue dye traditionally used to color denim's warp yarn, known for sitting mostly on the surface…
  • InseamInseam is the length of the inner leg seam, from the crotch to the bottom hem, and it determines how long jea…

L

  • Left-hand twillLeft-hand twill has its diagonal rib running from lower right to upper left, giving the fabric a softer surfa…
  • Leg openingLeg opening is the circumference of the jeans at the bottom hem, and it is one of the main measurements that …
  • Low riseLow rise jeans have a waistband that sits below the hip bones, the lowest of the three common rise categories.

M

  • Mid riseMid rise jeans sit somewhere between the natural waist and the hip, making it the most middle of the ground r…
  • Mom jeansMom jeans are a high rise, relaxed fit style with a fuller seat and thigh that tapers gently toward a narrowe…

O

  • Open-end yarnOpen-end yarn is cotton yarn produced by a faster rotor spinning method, resulting in a smoother, more unifor…

R

  • Raw denimRaw denim is denim that leaves the mill unwashed after dyeing, so it starts stiff and dark and fades accordin…
  • Relaxed fitRelaxed fit jeans are cut with extra room through the hip, thigh and leg, giving a loose, comfortable silhoue…
  • Right-hand twillRight-hand twill is the most widely used denim weave, identifiable by its diagonal rib running from lower lef…
  • Rigid denimRigid denim is 100 percent cotton with no added elastic fiber, giving it a firm hand feel that softens gradua…
  • Ring-spun yarnRing-spun yarn is cotton yarn twisted on a ring spinning frame, producing slight thickness variations that gi…
  • RiseRise is the measurement from the crotch seam up to the top of the waistband, and it determines where a pair o…
  • RivetRivets are small metal studs fixed through the denim at pocket corners and other stress points to stop the se…
  • Rope dyeingRope dyeing twists cotton yarn into thick ropes and passes them through repeated indigo dips, building up col…

S

  • SanforizedSanforized denim goes through a mechanical pre-shrinking process, so the finished garment changes very little…
  • SelvedgeSelvedge denim is fabric woven on narrow shuttle looms, leaving a tightly finished edge that does not fray.
  • Skinny fitSkinny fit jeans follow the shape of the leg closely from hip to ankle, generally with a narrow leg opening a…
  • Slim fitSlim fit jeans are cut close to the leg, similar to skinny jeans, but with slightly more room through the thi…
  • StonewashingStonewashing is a finishing process that softens denim and lightens its colour by tumbling the fabric with ab…
  • Straight fitStraight fit jeans keep roughly the same leg width from the thigh down to the ankle, giving a classic, versat…
  • Stretch denimStretch denim is woven with a small amount of elastic fiber alongside cotton, giving the fabric give and reco…
  • Sulphur dyeingSulphur dyeing uses sulphur based dyes, often alongside indigo, to produce colors such as black, grey or gree…

T

  • Tapered legA tapered leg is a jeans cut that stays roomier through the thigh and seat and gradually narrows down to a sl…
  • Tapering (alteration)Tapering is an alteration that takes in the side seams of jeans, usually from the knee down, to create a narr…
  • Twill weaveTwill is a weave in which the weft thread passes over and under multiple warp threads in a stepped pattern, c…

U

  • Unsanforized (shrink-to-fit)Unsanforized denim has not been mechanically pre-shrunk, so it shrinks noticeably, often 5 to 10 percent, the…

W

  • Waist measurementWaist measurement is the circumference of the jeans waistband, and it corresponds to the W number in standard…
  • WashWash refers to the overall colour, fade level and surface treatment applied to a pair of jeans after the deni…
  • WhiskersWhiskers are the light, fan shaped crease lines that form across the upper thigh and hip area of jeans from r…
  • Wide legWide leg jeans keep a consistently generous width from the hip all the way down to the hem, without narrowing…

Y

  • YokeThe yoke is the curved, angled panel of fabric across the back of jeans, sitting above the back pockets, that…

Z

  • Zip flyA zip fly is a jeans closure using a metal or plastic zip, the more common and generally quicker to use of th…