Chain stitch is a type of stitching formed by a single thread looping through itself repeatedly, rather than two threads locking together as in an ordinary lock stitch. Sewn with a specialised machine, it produces a line of stitching on the front that has a subtle rope like texture, and a distinctive looped chain pattern visible on the back.
Historically, chain stitch was the standard way of hemming jeans, since the machines used for it were faster for the long production runs of workwear. It has a notable practical quirk: if the thread is cut or pulled at one end, the whole line can unravel like a zipper, which is different from how a lock stitched hem behaves. Today, chain stitching is mostly associated with premium and raw denim, prized for its look and the way it puckers the hem slightly as the fabric shrinks with washing.
Most mass produced jeans are hemmed with an ordinary lock stitch instead, which is more secure but looks flatter. See our guide to hemming jeans for how the two methods compare when altering length.
