Selvedge, short for self edge, describes fabric woven so that its own edge is closed and finished, with no loose threads that can unravel. It is produced on older, narrow shuttle looms that weave a continuous weft thread back and forth across the fabric, which naturally seals both edges as the cloth is made. This is different from the wider, faster looms used for most modern fabric, which leave a raw edge that needs to be overlocked separately.
In practice, selvedge shows up as a thin, tightly woven strip along the outseam of the leg, often with a colored thread woven into it. Because the looms that make it are slower and narrower, selvedge denim tends to be produced in smaller runs and used by brands that emphasize traditional construction and heavier, long lasting fabric. It is not automatically better in every sense, but it is a reliable sign that a maker chose an older, more deliberate weaving process.
If you turn up the cuff of a pair of jeans and see a small colored line along the seam, that is the selvedge showing. For more on how this fabric is made and how it compares with regular denim, see our selvedge denim guide and the entry on raw denim, since the two often go together.
